I’ve always wanted to buy a Montecristi Panama hat. I still, however, have not been able to justify the price. Yes, the hand-woven straw is so tight that the brim is paper thin, and there are no visible hems since the raw edges are woven back into themselves. But I can just see my six-year-old daughter sitting on top of a $1200 hat, crushing it flat.

Yesterday I had the occasion to visit a marvelous hat shop in NYC: J.J. Hat Center. If you’re a “hat person” you must visit this store! (310 Fifth Avenue, at 32nd Street) They’ve been in business since 1911, and the moment you step through the door you feel as if you’ve stepped back in time. The antique chandeliers and dark wooden display cases set the tone, and the salesmen treat customers with great aplomb. It’s almost an insult to call them “salesmen” since they act more like trusted advisors. The gentleman who took my order has been working at J.J. Hat Center continuously for the past twenty years.

Here’s a picture of him steaming a hat, so that the brim can be properly flexed before trying it on.Notice the steam vent built into the table surface. It’s operated by a foot pedal mechanism, and shoots out a continuous volume of steam as needed.

The shop itself is paneled with old wood, and filled with shelves and shelves of hats.

Here’s the Panama hat I ended up buying, made from Ecuador straw:

The weaver has to lean over a pole for hours to weave the straw tightly:

Of course, being a magician, I was drawn to their selection of top hats:

Here’s a close-up of a fine top hat:

Don’t ask me to pull a rabbit out. (I estimate that I must’ve heard this joke thousands of times…!)